The mystique of forests and wildlife has always fascinated me during life. Years ago, I had spectacular opportunity to be close to the nature and explore these fascinations during my near two years stint at Jabalpur, Madhya Pradesh, where I served as the Controller of Defence Accounts with main office there and almost three dozen subordinate offices distributed over various parts of the state, rendering financial and accounting services to a large number of units and formations, mainly Army but a few Air Force and other related organizations as well. The state of Madhya Pradesh is located in the Central India with almost 31% forest cover along with three prominent hill ranges namely the Vindhya Range, the Satpura Range, and the Maikal Range, thereby offering various fascinating geography and landscape.
The Kanha National Park is slated as one of the prominent tiger reserves of India, which covers an area of approximately 940 square kilometre spread over in two districts of Mandla and Balaghat in the Maikal chain of hills. Although in existence for centuries, this Park was formally created on 1 June 1955 and was designated as the tiger reserve in 1973. If we combine the core zone along with the buffer zone, the total forest area of the Kanha Tiger Reserve works out to approximately 1945 square kilometre. Contrary to the past practice, the forest department has now divided the entire area into four zones, namely Kanha, Kisli, Mukki, and Sarhi for the optimal conservation of the forest and wildlife as also for the tourism purpose; we were allotted the main Kanha zone. The daily number of safaris are allotted and regulated accordantly for the respective zones. For instance, one can only enter for the morning safari in Kanha zone through the Mukki gate. Similarly, for the morning safari in Kisli zone, one can enter only from the Sarhi gate.
Jabalpur was one place which was truly liked by me and family as well. Then as CDA, I took multiple initiatives in the organization, both functional and infrastructural, with many key achievements in both areas for which I still derive a considerable satisfaction and solace post-retirement. I always had a curiosity and keen desire to revisit the place to see how the place has progressed and changed since I left it fifteen years back. Recently, I had this opportunity in April 2025 when from Delhi I planned a three days Jabalpur visit in consultation with the present incumbent there combining it with a visit to the Kanha National Park (also known as the Kanha Tiger Reserve). During one day visit to the aforesaid national park, we stayed overnight in the Madhya Pradesh Tourism facility at the Baghira Jungle Resort, village Mocha located within the forest area itself and undertook a morning safari to the reserved forest the following day.
The open jeep safaris are the most suitable and convenient way to watch wildlife in usually thick and lush green forest area of the Kanha National Park. Allotment is directly made by the forest department, the driver is usually the owner or his employee but the designated naturalist (guide) is allocated by the forest officials, and the total carrying capacity of the jeep is six adults. In addition, a limited number of open mini buses are run by the resort owners under license and elephant safari is also available, only a few lucky and adventurous ones can avail the latter facility. All safari modes have to follow a prior allotted fixed zone and route with a tracking device, and leave the park area at the fixed timing. For instance, the jeep carrying us entered through the Mukki gate around 6.00 AM and we were back to our resort by around 11.00 AM. The tourists are not allowed to get down except at the designated place(s) with the rest room facility while doing safari by any mode.
Jeep safari is desirable because it keeps you beguiled besides providing sufficient privacy and flexibility to explore through the uneven and often difficult forest terrain mostly with mud roads. While entering through the assigned gate and time, some paper work regarding vehicle, guide, visitor details etc. is necessary which is facilitated by the attached guide himself, and following that the driver and guide on the vehicle would take the visitors only to the assigned zone. Of the morning time and evening time safaris, the former is desirable not only because the atmospheric conditions are more favourable but also that the chances of the sightings of wild life, and the tiger as well, are also better during this time. Of course, some tourists prefer and plan for a longer stay in the forest area and enjoy both the morning and evening safaris. Here one needs to graciously accept and follow certain dos and don’ts for own safety and for the sake of the wildlife. The overall landscapes along with the surrounding meadows with the wooded strands and dense maroons of the forest presents a magnanimous sightseeing experience for the tourists and nature lovers.
Although the majority of visitors are interested in wild life with a focus on the tiger sightings, and, in fact, the vehicle driver and naturalist, too, drive through the forest roads keeping the same objective in view. However, the Kanha Tiger Reserve is no less fascinating for its flora i.e. variety vegetative attractions, too. The nature of the forest area is tropical dry and mixed deciduous with a variety of plants and trees like Sal, Saja, Lendia, Dhawa, Tendu, Palas, Bija, Mahua, Aonla, Achar and Bamboo. Besides, many species of climbers, herbaceous plants and grass are also found there. What particularly attracted my attention was the long canopies of Sal (Shorea robusta) trees throughout and large patches of bamboos (Dendrocalamus strictus).
Traditionally, the Kanha National Park is considered a good game for the wildlife observers for the several decades since last century. It inhabits dozens of the herbivorous and carnivorous animals, birds, reptiles and fishes as well. While it known as a famed Indian tiger reserve since early 1970s, it is also considered as prized ground for the Barasingha (swamp deer), sometimes referred as the ‘jewel of Kanha’. The rich fauna includes mammal species like Tiger, Panther, Gaur (Indian Bison), Cheetal, Sambhar, Barasingha, Black Buck, Barking Deer, Wild Boar, Sloth Beer, Langur, Jackal, Wild Dog, etc. Of around 300 bird species in the area, the common ones include Black Ibis, Egret, Parakeets, Pond Heron, Drongos, Crested Serpent Eagle, Grey Hornbill, Pigeons, Woodpeckers, Mynas, Peafowl, Red Jungle Fowl, Kingfisher, Flycatcher, Warblers, Bee-eaters, etc. Among the reptiles, almost all common snakes like Python, Cobra, Russel’s Viper, Krait, Rat Snake, Indian Monitor, and few Lizard species inhabit the forest area.
During almost four-hour safari through the Kanha zone including a passage through the Mukki, we were able to see and observe a host of creatures from the deer family, such as cheetal, sambhar, black buck, barasingha, and a barking deer. Besides, a few sightings of the Indian bison (from close proximity), wild boars and sloth beer (from a distance), langur (in abundance) were eye soothing. Among the birds, we could observe a few red jungle fowls (from a distance), peacocks, parakeets, eagle, herons, woodpeckers, etc. There were two planned attempts to watch the chief animal of attraction of the cat family i.e. the Indian tiger: First, signals were received around 7.30 AM by the guide accompanying us of a likely presence of a tiger in an extended patch of the swampy grassland. We quickly reached there and waited for over fifteen minutes without luck although some enthusiasts claimed to have seen glimpse of it. However, on the second call a few minutes past 10.00 AM, we promptly reached the designated spot and were able to observe the aura of majestic carnivore for a while, time suffice for a few quick images.
At the end of it, the entire stay in Kanha area was indeed a refreshing and pleasing venture, more particularly the morning safari part of it. A brief rendezvous with a tiger was a saving grace because many people consider the safari incomplete or inauspicious if one fails to see the majestic animal; in fact, many well-wishers later indeed enquired about it. Another fascinating feature that attracted my attention was a large number of termite mounds in varying shape and shades usurping the remains of the fallen trees. The boarding and lodging arrangements of the MP Tourism Baghira Jungle Resort were up to the mark, including the river facing suite and sumptuous morning refreshments suffice for us and both men assisting us. Lastly, it will be unfair if I do not acknowledge with gratitude so dedicated, affectionate and selfless support of my Jabalpur host Shri KDS Parmar throughout all this.
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